Lets get the rubbish bit out if the way first. Turns out we're not camper van friendly girls. In three consecutive days, we drove away with the doors open, the electricity still attached, and left the door open in a rainstorm. We managed 5 nights out of fifteen before we bailed, and stayed in a motel, although we did get back in the van to sleep at a later date. We christened her Vera, she had a top speed of 60 kph going uphill and rattled and squeaked like driving was torture.
Meet Vera.
But we loved, loved, loved New Zealand. We went white water rafter in Roturua, went to a Maori experience that evening, which included meeting the cute Maoris and a haka. We can't show pics of the whitewater rafting as we have them on a disc to bore you with when we get home.
The following day, we left Roturua and had lunch by Lake Taupo, it's big and surrounded by volcanic hills, impressive. That was followed by a long drive over the north island 'desert' with beautiful and dramatic scenery, Vera did not love wind while she was driving which made it quite exciting at time, but we did see a snow capped mountain so we have seen some snow, contrary to popular belief.
The next big thing we did was the ferry to the South Island. We met a brother and sister who said their parents owned a winery. Friends for life. Then an announcement came over the tannoy that there was face painting on board. I was only going to have a little Gaga star, but the naughty mummies in the queue said a tiger would be better, and it was thus I drove to Blenheim:
When we arrived in Blenheim, it was raining, so we drove like Redmayniacs to the cinema to catch Les Miserables. Squish squish all round. We then had dinner in a German gasto-pub, where we chatted animatedly to a lovely family of Kiwis, mainly about Game of Thrones (mostly for the benefit of their teenage son - at 14, even too young for us). Then the third Vera disaster hit us, we left the side door of the camper van open when we went to sleep, it rained torrentially in the night, I woke up to find Vicky spooning me, and the inside of Vera soaked. Somewhat bad tempered, we headed off on a wine tasting day.
Turns out wine tasting was the perfect antidote to our rain induced stropping. We had a brilliant guide called Kerry and a very fun group of folks to taste wine with. We went to seven wineries and must have tasted over thirty wines - our favourite were Cloudy Bay Pelorus (more about which later), any Pinot Gris (love it!) and a shock discovery of Gerwurtzstraminer (yummy!). But to be honest we loved it all and when we got back we had a cabin to sleep in and not Vera. Both we and Vera got to dry out that night.
The cool kids go wine tasting
We woke up surprising fresh (lesson is to start drink at 10am... And be asleep by 9pm) and had a long drive to the west coat of the South Island. On the way we stopped off for some 'i site' action and crepes that were so delicious Vicky had two. To explain, the i sites are tourist information and, as in Australia, they are awesome. I booked up a sky dive and Vick sorted out some hiking. Excited/terrified we made out way to Kiaterterri, incidentally have actually the most life endangering experience thus far when Vera's brakes decided to fool around on the twisty turny down hill journey. Vicky (who was driving) nearly pooed her pants.
We had a restorative meal of amazing green lipped mussels (just the thing before a skydive nine hours later) and then morning dawned. I waved goodbye to Vicky, who assured me that if I died, I would feel her wrath from this world to the next. I was remarkably calm, but must have been a little nervous as I did not notice the cuteness of the man I was strapped to, until we were safely on the ground.
Evan McHotstuff
Then I jumped......not him......
While I was doing this, Vicky was off tramping. Abel Tasmin is an isolated National Reserve only accessible by catamaran that lands on the beach. Vicky saw the same rainbow that I jumped into but from the sea heading up to a northern point to hike back down. She is pretty convinced that it's the most beautiful place on earth.
I was back by 10 30am so got Vera checked out by the local mechanics, all good to go. I picked Vicky up from the beach and we drove to Havelock (green lip mussel capital of New Zealand) for a couple of nights. We stayed in Rutherford YHA (he's a celebrity for splitting the atom apparently) but it was properly divey... made even Vera look potentially attractive.
The reason we were there was to catch a ride with the Pelorus Mail Boat. Some islanders who live out on the Sounds (small islands) have no mains electricity, gas or water supply (are they mad?!) and many don't have contact from the outside world apart from once a week from Jim the Postie/Skipper. It was beautiful, we got to drive the boat but after a few hours we would have been happy to come back to shore.
Meeting the interesting locals
Vicks drives the mail boat
Mussels being farmed by muscles on the Pelorus Sounds
Back on the North Island, we headed up the Great New Zealand wine trail, camping all the way, aided by fish and chips, local banter and the case of wine we managed to accumulate at the vineyards. We hit Napier, and were charmed by its art deco splendour.
After Napier, we rode like demons in the mountains outside of Napier, Vicky learnt to ride properly, and we both did our first canter, without falling off, although it was close run thing for me.
Vicks with Jess
Next stop, an active Volcano. Which was quite possibly the coolest thing ever. And there were dolphins on the way there. Added bonus.
On the way back from the volcano, we discover that it's the most active it's been since it last blew in 2000, and could erupt at any time.
My birthday, we arrive in Hahei, play in the hot tub and have a fabulous meal. Vicky has bought lots of Pelorus and balloons and makes the day really special. I was also made to wear a Princess tiara all day, and we had the best brunch. And a pretty good dinner:
To make the most of our last day we went to hot water beach, got sun burnt (ideal just before a 12 hour flight!) and took a glass bottom boat tour along the coastal marine reserve and had a snorkel.
Cathedral Cove
Snorkelling (last time in the sea for three weeks!)
On that note we were ready, if a bit apprehensive, for South America. However, on finding out our flight was delayed, we popped into Auckland for lunch and saw the Sky Tower.
And then, having been so good with Vera for the past 15 days, I crashed her into a bollard, and it was time to leave the country.
