Wednesday 14 November 2012

Leaving Laos

Dont worry, be happy is the instruction we were given by our Thai tour guide, and is her second favourite thing to say (more about her first favourite saying later). After a few days in Laos, we are all less worried and more happy, having adapted to 'Asian time', where 'I'll meet you at 8am' could mean half an hour either side, and the pace of life is way more relaxed.

We've had a great time in Laos, the scenery has been stunning, the people friendly and the food incredible. There are miles and miles of river and green jungle. Ironically, in the UK, I half jokingly say that the countryside makes me itchy, being a total city girl. Here in Laos, where the countryside is way more beautiful, I do actually get itchy, as the mosquitoes show no mercy. But the landscape is seriously stunning, misty mountains give way to the river, and there a beautiful blue waterfalls to swim in, once you've got into the cold water and accepted that the Garra fish are going to nibble at your feet, whether you want them to or not.



The people have been wonderful and friendly, Sabaai dii (hello) and respectful bows greet you wherever you go. The staff at hotels and restaurants bend over backwards to help you and show you the hospitality of their country, and are keen for you to ask questions ( although don't ask them about their one party 'democracy'). Even our singing tour guide, who made us all sing 'My Heart Will Go On' and the rabbited on for an hour or so at 8:30am was sweet, although I think I would have been forced to punch him if I'd had to spend more than a day and a half on a coach with him.

Time to stop bitching and move in to my favourite topic, food. The food has been wonderful. Perfect yellow curries, lab ( minced meat mixed with herbs and salad, served beautifully fresh - I had the local meat, buffalo), a traditional Laotian barbeque, where the BBQ is set in the middle of the table, the meat is cooked on the top and around the outside, there is broth for cooking the vegetables, noodles and egg they bring alongside the meat. I was a bit dubious about cooking my own squid and prawns, but no adverse side effects mean that I am at least Masterchef qualified. Result.


Me with my mixed plate of fish and meat to go on the BBQ.




Getting the BBQ going.

The French influence in the region also means great baguettes and crepes, perfect for those days when you just can't face another bloody noodle. Although the fillings are somewhat interesting........




Banana, tuna, chocolate crepe anyone?


Very conscious that I've written a lot about food, and haven't included my two favourite meals yet. The first was at the night market in Luang Prabeng, where there are stalls with huge bowls of food that you can pick and mix on a plate. For 10,000 kip ( just over $1 US).




Stall at the night market, Luang Prabeng. Have died and gone to heaven.

My second favourite meal was at a restaurant in Vientiane that trains former street children to be waiting staff. A selection of super fresh, super tasty foods was bought out for us all to share; spicy beef salad, green chicken curry, red beef curry, rice, fresh spring rolls, just wonderful. And doing our bit for charidee too. Safe to say, we've been totally spoilt on the food front.




All this, and we've swam in waterfalls:


Ridden elephants:




Seen monkeys that can do amazing things:




And witnessed the most beautiful sunset over the Mekong river:




Laos, you've been pretty special to us. Good Morning Vietnam, you've got a lot to live up to.

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